Friday, April 17, 2026

A memorble train journey

The ‘WEEK’ dated 12th April was a special

issue on Indian Railways. Many authors have

written nostalgically about the various aspects

of train travels of yesteryears. The issue

brought back the memories of dozens of such

travels between Margao Goa and Bengaluru

which we undertook during my four decades

of residence in Goa, out of which one always

remains etched in my mind. 


During my early days in Goa, the track was

meter gauge and there was a daily train from

Vasco de gama to Bangalore, which arrived at

the Margao station at 10.40 in the morning.

We boarded the train at Margao. There was

no chance of getting anything edible - other

than ‘churmuri’ - till we reached Hubli and hence

we always carried our lunch. The train arrived

at Dharwar - where my in-laws stayed -  around

four or five in the evening and stopped there

for a few minutes allowing us to handover a

packet of ‘pineapple cake’ from Marliz bakery

in Margao and receive a flask containing hot

coffee and a parcel of very much enjoyable

dinner, lovingly prepared by my mother in l

aw for her grandchildren. We usually travelled

by sleeper class but once, when my parents

were also travelling with us, I availed of the

LTC facility and we travelled by First class. 


The first class compartment contained four

or five ‘coupes,’ each one a private room,

containing four very comfortable ‘berths’ and

having a door which opened onto a common

passage. This door could be locked from

inside. We were four adults and two children

and we had an entire coupe for ourselves.

Since my parents were with us, my wife

had packed an elaborate lunch and not the

usual ‘roTi - subzi’ or its equivalent. 


It was nearing lunch time when the train

stopped for ‘crossing’ in a very small station

(probably built only for crossing facility)

called Sonaulim in the midst of western

ghats. The ‘station’ was just a room for t

he station master and there was no ‘platform’

as no passengers got in or out at Sonaulim.

On both sides of the station were houses for

the staff, two on each side, with their backyards

facing the railway track. There was a stream

running close by and lush greenery all around.

(It is one of my many un fulfilled wishes to live

in a surrounding like that, but that is apart

from the story). 


As we sat waiting for the crossing, looking at

the beautiful scene out of the window, my wife’s

eyes fell on the grove of plantain saplings

planted in the backyard of one of the  houses.

“It is lunch time, go get two plantain leaves

and we shall have a feast” she said. I was

reluctant. I had no idea how long the train

would halt there, there was no platform to alight

from the train and the plants obviously belonged

to the occupants of the house. I also said that

I don’t have a knife and it is not easy to get

the leaves without a knife. 


My wife brushed aside my observations saying

that she knows that the train does not move

till the other train comes from the opposite

direction, handed me a knife (which had been

brought for the purpose of cutting apples)

and ordered ‘Go’. I was young enough to

jump on to the ground, sensible enough not

to fight in front of my parents, and hence

I jumped out, found an opening to crawl

through the fence, stealthily got in, cut two

leaves and returned without getting caught

and without damage to body, pride or leaves. 


As the train started moving, we cut the leaves

in half to make four pieces, spread them on

two lower berths, sat crosslegged facing each

other, and savoured a delicious lunch of

flavoured rice (garnished with coriander and

cashew nuts), curds rice, pickles, papad and

even a sweet, all the while enjoying the

changing scenery of the ghats through the

windows of the slowly climbing train. My

father was very much pleased and the children

were delighted with the unexpected experience.

The lunch was followed by coffee made with

hot water (brought for mixing infant formula

for the younger kid) instant coffee and milk

powder and it has remained etched in my

memory - as one of the very pleasant

experiences - over the decades. 





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