It is a cliche but a fact. Nothing captures the imagination of a Goan better than 
Fish curry rice and fish fry. My friends thoroughly enjoyed the fish plate at Malvan 
 though they were sucking their breath and reaching for their beer repeatedly for
 relief from the spicy preparation! And the fact that my fish starved friends were 
enjoying 'formalin free' and fresh fish - just short of putting it live in their 
mouth - enhanced their pleasure to a great extent. I am not entitled to that 
pleasure and I stuck to my grass but I should accept that even my grass was 
well prepared and I enjoyed it. 
We (my swimming group) made an overnight trip to Malvan last weekend. I think  
fish fry and an opportunity to get yourself photographed wearing scuba gear - for 
use in your FB and Whatsapp posts - is what Malvan is all about. If you enjoy that, 
you had a great time there. It has nothing to offer for picky people like me 
and I wasn’t impressed. But since I was with my friends, whose company is enjoyable 
irrespective of where you are, I had a good time. 
I was imagining Malvan to be a peaceful, isolated and clean sea side place but it is  
none of  that. Probably It was like that some years back but now that it has shot to 
fame as a cheaper alternative to Goa, it seems to be just “making hay while the sun 
shines" and not bothering about the after effects. 
My complaints (by nature, I am prone to look at the darker side usually) begin with the
travel to Malvan from Ponda - Goa. One hundred and forty
kilometrs took four hours. The road is good but the traffic congested till the 
Goa - Maharashtra border and after that, traffic is reduced but the road condition 
gets worse. Once you reach the place you directly head to the beach. When you 
find rows of fishing boats along with cars, goods vehicles and rikshaws, you are 
on the beach. The great line of trash is the border between the land and water. 
Initially I thought that we were on a somewhat crowded part of the beach and 
maybe it gets better as you move away. But the next morning we walked for nearly 
eight kilometers along the beach - crossing Tarkalli and going upto Devbag - and there 
is no difference. 
The highlight of our trip to malvan was the scuba diving.  I thought that the eight of 
us would be taken to the diving spot by a boat, 
you dive down using the scuba gear, see whatever there is to see, pay for the 
pleasure and get back. But no. You will be herded to a large boat which already 
contains two or three more groups who have bargained for  similar pleasure. 
The agent will dump all of you in the boat and goes out looking for more people. 
You remain baking in the boat for an hour or so. Once he is sure that he can’t find 
anymore, he give a thumbs up and the boat leaves for the place meant for diving, 
about half a kilometer away from the shore, right next to the Malvan fort. 
The place meant for diving is about 50 feet by 50 feet in area and as you near the  
place, you will notice another half a dozen boats, containing about twenty people 
each, jostling for a vantage spot.  The Scuba operators take two or three at a time for a 
dive lasting about eight to ten minutes and concentrate on making you pose above the 
corals and attracting fish to your face using fish food spray. They used some foam 
like spray - I think it was fish food because fish come rushing. One of them 
takes your picture, and you are done. 
So, you dive for about eight minutes and spend about two to three hours idling/ baking 
in the boat. Not something that I would enjoy. Since it is a considerable duration people 
are forced to eat in the boat, rinse their mouth and spit into water and children who 
have to let go, are encouraged to stand on the edge of the boat and relieve themselves. 
Mercifully none of the adults did that. And that is the water you dive into. An oxygen 
cylinder is on your back and you bite on to the mouthpiece and hold it tight, sealing
 it  with your lips. The same mouth piece which has been held by thousands 
like you  and which has never been washed except for the dip it gets into saline water
 between two people using it. 
I just could not do it but I could not back out too. Everyone else was doing and enjoying  
it ! So,I went for it. But however much I tried, I could not hold the mouthpiece tight and
cover it with my lips. As a result seawater kept entering inside and I had to come out in 
between and face reprimands from the operator for not following the instructions. After 
five minutes, I was done and glad that I was done! I climbed out, gargled my mouth 
repeatedly, spat into the same water everyone else was spitting into, and we returned 
to the shore soon afterwards.
The tide had cleared some of the trash littering the beach and the beach was looking 
clean and calm. we went for a swim. The sea was smooth, water was cool and clear 
and the company as I said was great. We enjoyed a good swim before our lunch. 
The  fish plate, which I have mentioned in the beginnig.  We left Malvan by three 
and were back in ponda by seven after a refreshing tea break at a roadside gada 
at  Banda. 
What I have written, is what I felt about Malvan and the fact that I enjoyed the visit in 
spite of the reservations that I have expressed here, indicates the effect my buoyant 
friends have upon me! And I end with that happy memory and the taste of hot sweet 
tea we had in the roadside gada at Banda - Maharashtra. 
|  | 
| My Friends : From left to right - Praveen, Rajesh, Sandesh, Viren, Rajaneesh, Shivdeep, Triambak. |